一代訂制女服宗師休伯特· 德· 紀梵希(Hubert de Givenchy),曾在恩師克裏斯托伯爾· 巴倫夏加的回顧展上大發牢騷:“高級訂制服已死,現在的時裝品牌只靠配件續命。連香榭麗舍大道的時裝名店,都是挂時裝之名,實際在賣手袋皮鞋。”
雖然這句話已經被重重複複重重複複重複又重複的引述著,也不少人一直提出證明去反駁這個言論
因為不景氣又讓這句話可以再被不斷重重複複重重複複重複又重複
國中開始就很喜歡看每一季和每個品牌的時裝展,雖然我從來不去記得品牌或設計師也不去記得model名字,更沒有因此照著所謂時尚的穿著,但我就是喜歡看,小時候不懂,總是覺得到底這些設計師在設計的是什麼,到底什麼人會去穿這樣的衣服在街上走?
長大後我才知道,其實他們設計的是元素,這些看起來華而不實穿的服裝重點在那個設計概念和組成元素,而這些華服是用來收藏不是用來穿上街的!
我總覺得這幾年runway上走的,不如以前的華麗誇張,已經有許多設計都已經退而帶著一點點"成衣"的色彩,不過這幾年我也都很少在看時裝展就是了....
高級訂製服到底會不會死?
嘖嘖等我混進那個產業後再說吧XD
我個人是覺得,這些高級訂製服代表的不是金錢而是熱情,雖然這些高級訂製服花費著大把大把的鈔票,可是如果有天沒有了這些高級訂製服,這些名牌還會這麼高不可攀地充滿人們給予他的價值嗎?
這些高級奢侈品賣的是熱情和信仰,就跟宗教差不多,有天要是不見了,人們會慌的!
突然想起The Devil Wears Prada(穿著Prada的惡魔)中那段話真的很經典
Miranda: This Stuff? Oh, ok, I see, you think this has nothing to do with you? You go to your closet, and you select out, I don't know, that lumpy blue sweater for instance, because you're trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back, but, what you don't know is that that sweater is not just blue, it's not turqouise, it's not lapis: it's actually cerulean. And you are also blively unaware on the fact that in 2002, Oscar De Le Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns, and then I think it was Yves Saint-Laurent wasn't it? who showed cerulean military jackets, I think we need a jacket here, and then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of 8 different designers, then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic casual corner where you not know fished it out of some clearance bin, however, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs, and it's sort of comical how you think that you've made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when infact, you're wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room, from a pile of stuff.
所以,這些高級奢侈品賣的是熱情和信仰,就跟宗教差不多,有天要是不見了,我想人們真的會慌的!
唉好喜歡這一款設計喔!(這是project runway中的設計)
我也好愛第二件跟第三件的洋裝(這也是project runway中的設計)
*註:
Haute Couture(高級時裝)是法國的定義
在法國要成為Haute
Couture,必須通過高級時裝協會的審核,審核條件包括:
1.在巴黎有設計室
2.每年參加女裝協會的兩次展示,每次展示至少有75件以上的設計由首席設計師完成
3.服裝基本由手工完成等條件的限制
4.品牌每兩年要重新申報一次,不合格就取消資格